North Aegean Stories

Egyptian Photo Parlours

Mariza Krallis follows members of Lesvos’ merchant and landowning classes in 19th century Egypt.

We travel to colonial Egypt of the 19th c. by way of a diary from 1887, family photographs and old postcards. Here we find Efstratios K. Kalligeris – or simply Barba-Stratis – from Sykamia, Lesvos, who we have encountered in other stories. He becomes our guide through Alexandria and Cairo at the end of the 19th century.

In 1886, on his first journey to Egypt at the age of 20, Stratis accompanied his brother-in-law, Spyridon Ioannidis, to Alexandria. There, he started working at the shop of Georges Mathis, a friend of Spyridon’s, who ran a trading business and owned a mansion in the Ramleh district. Stratis stayed for a time with that household and also partnered with Mathis’s cousin, George Pacou. In 1888, just two years later, Stratis settled permanently in Egypt and became a business partner of his brother-in-law. In 1895, as bride and groom, Marie Mathis and Stratis Kalligeris were photographed at the Fettel & Bernard studio in Alexandria. Earlier, Stratis’s parents, Konstantinos D. Kalligeris and Fani ChatziAnagnostou from Sykamia, had been photographed at the Fettel, Sébah & Bernard (FSB) studio. Collaboration between photographers was a common practice at the time, aiming at commercial expansion.

Research into the studio’s location led us to the fourth revised edition of the German Karl Baedeker’s “Handbooks for Travelers” from 1898. Baedeker’s red leather-bound guides were famous across Europe for their clarity, detail, and accuracy—qualities that established him as the “father of modern tourism.” According to the guidebook, the Fettel & Bernard studio was located on the well-known Ramleh Avenue, near the Mathis residence.

In the 19th century, the sandy coastline east of Alexandria, known as Ramleh (which means “sand” in Arabic), was a barren area. Gradually, wealthy Alexandrian families began building summer residences, transforming it into a small Riviera, connected to the city center by tram. One of the tram stops was Bakos (or Bacus). The origin of its name remains debated: it either derives from the god Bacchus (Dionysus) or from Bakos/Bacus, a well-known cotton broker in Alexandria at the time. Browsing through Stratis’s diary, we read that Pacou or Bacou, the uncle of Georges Mathis, “owned the first [best known] shop in Alexandria.”

In Alexandria, a cosmopolitan Riviera of the time, merchants, intellectuals, sailors and businessmen from all over the Mediterranean coexisted in a mosaic of cultures. A vibrant social life revolved around European cafés, luxury hotels, private clubs and operas, where the city’s elite met.

After settling in Cairo, Marie and Stratis were photographed at the studio of the Armenian Gabriel Lékégian (G. Lékégian & Cie) on Chareh El-Kamel Street, opposite the famous Shepheard’s Hotel. At the time, the hotel was located on Ibrahim Pasha Street (now El Gomhoreya Street), overlooking the Ezbekiyeh Gardens.

Over the years, Shepheard’s hosted distinguished guests such as Aga Khan, Winston Churchill, Theodore Roosevelt, T. E. Lawrence, and others. Research shows that, probably on the same day (as she is wearing the same dress and is in the same photo studio), Marie was captured in a photo with two children – a boy and a girl, unknown to us. This photograph is displayed on a wall of the Folklore Museum of Sykamia, Stratis’ birthplace.  Later, around 1908/9, the couple, Marie and Stratis, along with his brother, Achilleas K. Kalligeris, his sister-in-law, Andromachi G. Gogou, and their son, Georgios A. Kalligeris, captured the moment of their family gathering in Cairo at an unknown photography studio. The dresses and hairstyles of both the ladies and gentlemen follow European trends and the fashion of the Belle Époque.

According to Stratis’s 1919 will, their home was on Kasr al Nil Street, in Cairo’s central Ismailia district. This street intersects El Gomhoreya, which may have influenced their choice of this particular photography studio.  Aunt Marie left us small porcelain bonbonnières, which she used to buy from the pastry shops Patisserie – Confiserie A La Kefak and A. & A. Criticou Le Caire —the latter bearing a recognizable Greek surname. As for Barba-Stratis, he expanded his estate all the way to Gezira Island in Cairo, a cosmopolitan suburb and a hub of leisure, sports, and social life in the Egyptian capital.

In Cairo, the heart of Egypt, the Ismailia district—home to many Europeans and affluent locals—boasted European architecture, grand boulevards, and public buildings reminiscent of Paris. At the center of high society and a meeting place for travelers, diplomats, and explorers were the Ezbekiyeh Gardens and the Shepheard’s Hotel. In contrast to the European quarters, Cairo’s bazaars were vibrant and bustling, with merchants selling spices, jewelry, and handcrafted goods in a maze of alleyways. The Nile River shaped the rhythm of life, from riverside mansions to the feluccas gliding across its waters.

Life in Alexandria and Cairo at the turn of the 19th and early 20th centuries was a masterful blend of oriental tradition and European cosmopolitan influence. In these cities, the stories of individuals such as Eustratios K. Kalligeris and Marie Mathis reflect the dynamic spirit of the times – a spirit of exploration, commercial activity and cultural osmosis. Yet for Stratis, his roots remained firmly rooted in Lesvos, the island of his birth. The ties between Egypt and Lesvos were deep, reinforced through trade, migration and family relations, with many Lesbian families seeking opportunities in the vibrant cities of the Nile, while maintaining a strong bond with their homeland. From that point of view, the lives of Stratis and Marie embody not only their personal ambition, but also the larger historical movement of Lesbian expatriates shaped and shaped by the cosmopolitan world of Egypt.

The photography studios of the time, such as Fettel & Bernard in Alexandria and Lékégian in Cairo, were more than just portrait studios; they were memory vaults, capturing an age where East and West, Europe and the Middle East, met and intertwined.