North Aegean Stories

Koldewey, Conze and Humann in Molyvos

Dimitris and Mariza Krallis reflect on the presence of German archaeologists in late 19th c. Molyvos.

Johannes Gustav Eduard Robert Koldewey (10 September 1855 – 4 February 1925) was a German archaeologist who conducted excavations in Western Asia, Asia Minor, Greece, and Italy. He became famous for his excavation of the ancient city of Babylon in present-day Iraq. Shortly before the end of the 19th century, Robert Koldewey also visited Lesvos and recorded his findings in a book, published in 1890 [1]. Although his book on Lesvos has not been translated into Greek, his maps have been studied, included in many books, and are now well known. 

In one of Koldewey’s maps of Molyvos (Methymna), we see the Limenas (harbour) with its ancient pier, but also the new harbour, ruins of the fortress, Skala, the Turkish cemetery, the administrative building, and Agia Marina. Between the Turkish cemetery and the Konak, he also placed a house about which nothing else is noted.  Which may have been that mansion, already been built at this time, on the road above the harbour at the location marked by Koldewey?

Today one finds such a house on Kepetzi Street (now Alcyonidon). The populous and well-known Kepetzi family – which gave its name to the street – has a history in Molyvos that begins in 1760. Their mansion was built around 1873 and was there in 1890 and is still there today. Our evidence suggests that this is the mansion that Koldewey marks on his map. Descendants of the Kepetzi family were Chrysanthos Molinos, Kleanthis K. Michaelides (a.k.a. Argyris Efthaliotis) and Efterpi Kepetzi (a.k.a.) Pepi Stavrou, who associated their names with journalism, literature, poetry, literature, and the so-called Lesbian Spring.

As we have already seen, Koldewey was not the first archaeology hot shot to pass through Lesvos. In a separate story we already encountered C. T. Newton who had the Halicarnassus and the Constantinople Hippodrome excavations on his CV. Looking into the KFL Archive, we find evidence of two more noted figures from the world of archaeology who find themselves in Molyvos.

Karl Humann. KFL Archive, sub-fond: Mariza and Ioannis N. Krallis.
Main family room, Komninakis Krallis Mansion - Molyvos annexe of the Athens School of Fine Arts

We’re in the early 1880s when Kataxinouda Lazou, her husband Kralis Hatzi-Anagnostou and their sons Ioannis and Komninakis appear to have welcomed two German visitors at their home, known today as the Komninakis Krallis Mansion. Alexander Conze and Carl Humann are known to us as the excavators of Pergamon. Humann, as a new Elgin, carried the Pergamon altar to Berlin, while Conze, still a young man, had toured Lesvos in search of traces of its ancient past in order to eventually publish a book on the island’s antiquities in 1865. Subsequently, from 1977 to 1887, he served as director of the antiquities collection in the Berlin Museums.We know of Conze and Humann’s connection with the family of Kataxinouda from two autographed photographs they sent in 1883, as excavators now in Pergamum, with a similar inscription “to the noble Kyrio Kralli in remembrance”. We know that Humann had passed through Molyvos that same year, so the postcards probably have this visit as a reference.

Alexander Conze. KFL Archive, sub-fond: Mariza and Ioannis N. Krallis.

We may also ask how standing by her husband and sons, this pious Christian lady opened her private space to two Western Europeans, children of the Enlightenment. We may expand our imaginary reconstruction of this encounter by noting that pseudo-Plutarch’s On the Education of the Youth, which her youngest son, Komninakis, had translated from the original, was a text that would have been familiar to the two German archaeologists. Note then, how by way of early imperial Rome, a small corner of the Ottoman Aegean and the German Reich may have found a point of connection, which was significant enough to warrant the dispatch of the post-cards discussed earlier from Pergamon to Molyvos.

[1] Robert Koldewey: Die antiken Baureste der Insel Lesbos, Reimer, Berlin 1890.